On Wednesday 24th October, the Andrew Hook Centre was delighted to
welcome Dr Anthony Stanonis (Queen’s Belfast University) for the fourth seminar
in the 2014-15 series. Stanonis is the author of Creating the Big Easy: New Orleans and the Emergence of Tourism,
1918-1945 (2006) and editor of Dixie
Emporium: Tourism, Foodways, and Consumer Culture in the American South (2008).
His forthcoming book is entitled Faith in
Bikinis: Politics and Leisure in the Coastal South Since the Civil War. The
topic of the discussion was the religious origin of soul food and the
centrality of conjure in African-American foodways.
Dr Stanonis began his presentation by playing Louis
Jordan’s 1949 song ‘Beans and Cornbread’, which offered a commentary on
American race relations, using black and white food staples as a metaphor.
Stanonis argued that the song celebrates togetherness and abundance in its
final call for interracial unity: ‘We should get up every morning and hang out
together like sister and brothers/
Every Saturday night we should hang out like
chitterlings and potato salad.’ What connects each food pairing in Jordan’s
song is the magical element of conjure or, more specifically, the belief that
certain foodstuffs could elicit a supernatural effect, often to the benefit of
racial harmony. With this introduction, Stanonis stressed the importance of
examining African American music alongside African religious studies in order
to fully understand the origins of soul food.
Central to Stanonis’s argument was the notion that,
with the Civil Rights Movement in the 1960s, the concept of soul food was
reconfigured as the black culinary aesthetic was used to promote cultural
nationalism and racial pride. In doing so, Stanonis stated that the important
legacy of soul food, with its roots in conjure practices, was obscured, as
indicated in the apparent void of references to conjure in scholarly analysis relating
to African American foodways and culture. In the context of the 1960s, black
leaders thus distanced themselves from conjure and, more generally, voodoo – in
an effort to demonstrate African American respectability and dedication to
Christianity. Soul food thus achieved popular status in the 1960s as it came to
denote togetherness, shared heritage and cultural assimilation within a rapidly
changing racial landscape. However, in this form, it was stripped of its
supernatural folkway traditions.
Dr
Stanonis also indicated that conjure practices in the United States had often
been stigmatised and, by default, surrounded by secrecy. Zora Neale Hurston
wrote in her anthropological study of conjure Mules and Men (1935) that, ‘Nobody knows for sure how many thousands
in America are warmed by the fire of hoodoo because the worship is bound in
secrecy. It is not the accepted theology of the nation, and so believers
conceal their faith. The practice is shrouded in profound silence.’ In order to
understand how this came to be, Stanonis turned his attention to the religious
origins of soul food and conjure. African slaves brought with them to the New
World their own food customs and spiritual traditions. In the popular and
national imagination, religious practices such as conjure and hoodoo, which
blended African folk belief with Protestant folk belief, became synonymous with
voodoo – a more organised religious practice that mixed Catholicism with
African religious traditions. White Americans thus conflated African American
folk practice under voodoo and increasingly viewed such practices as savage,
often highlighting the cannibalistic impulse of both religions, from
transubstantiation to records of African trade in human flesh for consumption. Throughout
the nineteenth and twentieth-centuries, white representations of African
Americans as savage and superstitious led black leaders and the black middle
class to disavow conjure while embracing more mainstream and hegemonic forms of
Christianity.
In
what proved to be one of the most illuminating aspects of the discussion, Dr
Stanonis turned his attention to the role played by jazz and blues musicians in
giving voice to spiritual beliefs often denied by racial spokesmen. Stanonis
stressed that the ‘soul’ celebrated by black musicians had much in common with
soul cooking – both were improvised and possessed a mixed religious heritage.
Jazz and blues thus became an important platform in the expression of African
American foodways. As the twentieth century progressed, both black and white
performers embraced conjure with the aim of subverting the traditionally
negative associations. These artistic references to conjure paved the way for a
closer examination of the supernatural dimension of soul food, as found within
recipes. Stanonis recounted several recipes which claimed to ward off police or
to win at cards and dice. Interestingly, some foodstuffs received particular
attention amongst conjurers, as indicated by one believer: ‘‘When you peel
onions in your home, your supposed to put sugar and salt on the peelings and
put in the stove and burn it. That’s keepin’ down the fuss in the house. And if
you have any fuss there, put salt on the onion and burn it up.’ Ultimately, Stanonis argued of
the importance of conjure at the grassroots level in providing an emotional
bulwark against poverty and discrimination. Whilst these conjure practices may
on the surface seem like mere superstitions, they were in fact powerful
remedies for the African American community during slavery and later, in
post-emancipation periods of racial discrimination and unrest.
Dr
Stanonis’s discussion of soul food and conjure in African American foodways was
interesting and thought-provoking. In the question and answer session, issues
were addressed such as the commercialisation voodoo and soul food on a national
and international level. Whilst African American resistance to slavery and
discrimination has, in recent decades, received much scholarly attention,
Stanonis highlighted an area of study that has remained relatively untapped. By
using music to illustrate key aspects of the discussion, Stanonis provided a
lively and engaging structure to the presentation and maintained the interest
of the audience throughout. In fusing together music studies alongside those of
religion and African American society and culture, Dr Stanonis facilitated a
multi-disciplinary approach to the study of foodways and conjure which, as he
demonstrated, in this context came hand in hand.
By Rebecca Dunbar
PGR at The University of Glasgow
The Centre’s seminar
series continues with Dr Lloyd Pratt
(University of Oxford): ‘Heroic Reading in Emerson and Thoreau’. This is
in collaboration with the School of Critical Studies at the University of
Glasgow, and forms part of the ‘English Visiting Speaker Series’, co-sponsored
by the Andrew Hook Centre. It will be held on Thursday 20th November
2014 in Room 202, 4 University Gardens, at 5:15pm. All very welcome!